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Masala Art: Truly Creative Indian Cuisine
by Savia Rajagopal
Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:13 PM
Masala Art may be a new entrant to Toronto's restaurant scene but it leaves many established places behind when it comes to serving great food.

   I walked in not knowing what to expect and I walked out an extremely well-fed, pampered and happy contented soul.

   That’s the only way I can describe my experience at Masala ART located at St Clair and Yonge St in Toronto. And note how I say experience – not just the food – but the overall “experience’ was by far among the very best I’ve had in Toronto. It’s such a refreshing change to visit a restaurant where the owner and staff take pride in everything they do. From the decor in the restaurant to the small little details that give you that warm fuzzy feeling, I came away feeling like a million dollars.

   To give you a little background, the restaurant is still in its infancy but you won’t be able to tell looking at the eclectic interior design which showcases local artists like the immensely talented Vishal Mishra and Anu Vittal. Owner Sahil Baweja adds that they are on the constant lookout for all kinds of artists to feature at the restaurant. Gorgeous paintings reflect colour and create a nouveau chic ambience and that there’s no “Bollywood” influence is a blessing. For those interested in art, you have to check out the mixed media painting that finds it place on the bar. The piece created by Vittal features all traditional spices against a mosaic of coloured tiles.  

   The menus themselves are like opening little treasure troves and delving into each one leaves you spoilt for choice... But they are just the trimmings...the real joy is the food, which is uninhibitedly South Asian with a creative twist that doesn’t distort or ruin the authentic flavours or taste.

   My culinary experience here began with a palette cleanser (and ever so delicious) – a tangy concoction presented in a shot glass. The website does tell you to expect “creative Indian cuisine” and how I love it when food lives up to such a claim. It is a new take on a street food favourite and I’ll leave it to you to find out more...

   What followed was a variety of appetizers that are great on two counts – fantastic taste and great value for money. I tried the highly recommended Samosas which have an interesting, unexpected ingredient – cranberries – used to fantastic effect. The Apricot Paneer Tikkas are also an interesting experiment that works well to give your palette a taste of something sweet accompanied with something cheesy. The piece de resistance is without doubt the Atta Murgh that gets top marks for presentation; the chicken is wrapped in red cabbage which is cooked inside dough! And just to pretty it up, there’s a real tomato that holds a tea light inside. If the food doesn’t get you curious, I guarantee that the presentation will! Top these up with a glass of chilled mango lassi martini and you’re set for the evening.

   To say that Masala Art has the best Naan’s I’ve eaten in a long time is as honest and true a statement I can make. I swear to it! Try them with rosemary or chilly-mili-mint (don’t you love the names?!) and you’re in for a treat. The chicken served at the restaurant is fresh and prepared well to give you a succulent, tender taste. The Nali Gosht is an authentic preparation but I’d only recommend it for a day when you’re really hungry because it’s a big portion that’s rich in flavour and may encourage you to loosen your belt! For the seafood lovers, the Prawn (shrimp) Peri Peri is a definite must-do. 
   For the vegetarians, there's a whole list of preparations to choose from. I tasted the Petha, made from pumpkin and for someone who hates pumpkin otherwise, I'm willing to try it out again. I hear great things about the Saag and Chana Masala but decided to feast on all things non-vegetarian this time around. All in all, the menu has a lot of choice of some favourites you're bound to see at most Indian or Pakistani restaurants but the presentation and that "something special" make eating here a treat.

   Now comes my favourite part... dessert. But not any old dessert, a divine portion of gulab jamun that is enhanced with the flavours of cognac! How’s that for creativity? And before you rule it out, take a risk and try this out. I’m not kidding, I don’t think I’ll be able to eat gulab jamun any other way.

   Amidst all the eating, special mention must be made to the impeccable service that saw the founder, Sahil Baweja, interact with every patron in the restaurant explaining the menu, offering menu suggestions and generally keeping a keen eye on requests and needs. His wait staff is extremely courteous, friendly and efficient - all three qualities are essential to good service. A team of chefs headed by executive chef, Umang Datta deserve kudos for presenting a unique and artistic exploration of traditional favourites. I’d highly recommend this place for a quiet romantic dinner or for a fun evening with friends. It’s upscale, chic and very urban – my kind of place!
Go for the Masalas; go for the Art – just go and check out this restaurant, you won’t regret it.

For more details, visit http://masalaart.ca/index.html Masala Art is located at 1404 Yonge St, Toronto.



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